Complete Water Soluble Nutrient Package from HGV
Whether you have a small farm or acres of greenhouse produce, HGV plant nutrients can help increase your yield and quality while lowering the cost of production
HGV Nutrients ONLY HAS 3 formulas to use in your feeding schedule:
There are NO OTHER ADDITIVES OR SUPPLEMETS that you will need to add to HGV for a complete grow cycle. These 3 formulas provide your plants with everything they need to grow big and beautiful.
Make It Simple. Make It Complete
HGV consists of three parts in total, Flowering, Growth, and Base. The Base is used with either the Growth formula OR the Flowering formula to create a 100% complete nutrient for all growth stages.
Ready To Scale
As you expand operations, you need to streamline SOPS, regulate inputs, and simplify your processes. HGV enables efficiency by only having to use two parts while still providing all necessary plant inputs at each stage of growth.
For Serious Growers
HGV was made for commercial growers looking to maximize harvests while managing costs. We utilize the highest quality raw materials so growers get the best results.
Home Growers - Ready To Start
The HGV ready-to-use bottles have all of the benefits of our commercial water-soluble formula that you know and love. Home growers can now take full advantage of easier storage and simplified mixing instructions while enjoying the same robust yields that our commercial bags provide.
Why is HGV Nutrients the top-selling and #1 recommend nutrient brand on Hydrobuilder.com?
Better quality, higher yields, and lower cost are just a few of the reasons to make the switch from your current line. Learn more about making the switch to HGV Nutrients here!
All HGV products are licensed and registered which means they have passed stringent testing protocols for metals and other contaminants that the Department of Agriculture requires. We have never had a customer fail product testing due to the use of HGV in their nutritional program.
HGV source the highest quality raw materials. We have tested every form of N (nitrogen), P (phosphorus), K (potassium), as well as secondary and trace elements, and only use what has given the best results time after time in our own commercial facilities. No Ammoniacal or Urea products are ever used. While we could make a lower-cost product, that is not our focus. Quality is always at the top of their list, and it should be at the top of yours as well.
You can learn even more about HGV Nutrients by reading our blog article - HGV Premium Plant Nutrients. This should tell you everything you need to know if you are considering making the switch over to HGV Nutrients!
HGV Nutrients can be used in home gardens or larger scale environments
Growing your own produce at home is not only rewarding but also a lot healthier and more cost-effective than shopping at farmer's markets or the big chain stores. From a few plants in pots to an entire yard filled with fruits, veggies, and flowers, HGV Nutrients will help you achieve the garden you have always dreamed about.
HGV nutrients were created out of necessity shortly after Ron Goldman started Home Grown Hydro Farms in 1989. At that time, there were no cost-effective specialty nutrients on the market. What was available was so expensive, production costs threatened to consume what little profit the new company was making.
The beauty of HGV nutrients is that they are designed to be fed at one strength from start to finish so you don't have to change EC or mix in additives at any time.
HGV plant nutrients work in any growing media
Over the last 29 years, we have used and tested HGV plant nutrients in every growing medium we could find. NFT, DWC, flood and drain systems, rockwool, coir(coconut), many different “soilless” mixes, and even soil. So far, we have not found a media that HGV nutrients have not performed exceptionally well in. We will happily offer growing advice on any media that you might currently be using or plan to use in the future. Pictured to the left are tomatoes growing in rockwool and coir, and lettuce and melons in NFT trays.
Suitable for any type of water and watering system.
Water quality plays a huge role in nutrient availability and plant health as well as being able to automate your watering and feeding. HGV plant nutrients have been used in both soft and hard water with outstanding results. Knowing what’s in your water and what, if any adjustments need to be made is a simple process that we can help you with. Depending on the mineral content, alkalinity, and pH of your source water, filtration or small changes in the standard formula can fix problems you might not even have realized were present. Mineral content can also be a problem for drip irrigation or fertigation systems leading to clogged emitters and plant damage. Call or email us today for help with getting a detailed water analysis and interpreting the results. We can also design a fertigation system and program to save you time and labor costs.
Dosage & Feeding Rates
There is no one size fits all feed chart feed chart. Between differences in environment, strain, grow methods, there are countless variables when it comes to your grow. HGV nutrients are perfect for all situations, providing you know how to use them based on your conditions. HGV nutrients are designed to be fed at one strength from start to finish so you don't have to change EC or mix in additives at any time. The magic comes from locking down the precise EC needed for maximum nutrient uptake.
The best way to find out how much base and growth formula or base and flower formula you will need to reach YOUR desired EC level is to start with 1 gallon of the water you use to irrigate with. Everyone's water is different and will require slightly different amounts to reach the same EC. The chart will give you a good starting point where you can easily adjust from if necessary.
Add the base formula and fully dissolve then add either the Growth or Flowering formula and mix well. DO NOT MIX THE BASE FORMULA IN THE SAME CONCENTRATE TANK AS EITHER THE GROWTH OR FLOWERING FORMULA. IN CONCENTRATED FORM, THEY MUST BE KEPT SEPARATE.
We’ve always seen the best results starting at an EC of 3.0. Use the chart below to determine the correct amount of each part needed to hit an EC of 3.0. Your numbers may be slightly higher or lower based on your source water. Adjust accordingly based on the upper part of the chart.When making adjustments, the ratio between Base formula and either Growth or Flowering formula will always be 0.6:1.
200 GALLON RESERVOIR AT 3.0 EC
Grams per Gallon at 3.0 EC = 7 grams for Flowering or Growth and 4.2 grams of Base. Therefore a 200-gallon reservoir would need 1,400 grams of Flowering or Growth and 840 grams of Base.
Using HGV liquid concentrate for this same example, you would need 4,600 mL of Flowering or Growth (23 mL x 200) and 2,800 mL of Base (14 mL x 200) to achieve 3 EC.
How To Turn HGV Into A Liquid Concentrate
For long term storage, we recommend turning into a liquid concentrate
Maximum solubility of HGV Flowering and Growth formulas is 2.5 lbs. per gallon at room temperature. Use 10 gallons of water for each 25 lb. bag. Utilizing hot water will speed up the amount of time it takes to dissolve a 25 lb. bag
Mix the solution. Using a long handled paint/mud stirrer connected to a cordless drill will speed up the process. Continue mixing until the product is completely dissolved in water.
Once fully dissolved, store the solution in a cool, dark place with a tight-fitting lid on the container.
For liquid concentrate, utilize the ML/GAL scale from the chart below. 1 dry gram of HGV = 3.34 mL of liquid concentrate
Dosatron Nutrient Delivery System for HGV Nutrients
The Nutrient Delivery System is a simplistic system made up of four main panel sections which can be arranged to accommodate a wide variety of fertigation programs. With total control in mind, customizing the entire panel is easy based on your personal nutrient program! View the Dosatron x HGV Nutrient Delivery System
|PPM - 500 Scale
|PPM - 700 Scale
*25LB BAG INTO 10 GALLONS OF WATER
1 lb = 454 grams | 1 gal water = 3,785 mL | 25 lb = 11,340 grams | 10 gal = 37,854 mL
When storing your HGV nutrients, it is important to keep in mind the temperature as well as the relative humidity of the room it is being stored in. Tests have shown the best temperature range to be between 60-65 degrees and a relative humidity of 35-40%. While not all facilities will be able to keep their environment within these exact parameters, you can still minimize degradation by keeping the temperature as stable as possible.
If you are unable to keep the product stored in a stable environment, it is recommended to turn it into a liquid concentrate as quickly as possible. The advantage of this is that when a liquid concentrate is sealed tightly it will not dilute or absorb moisture from or into the air even with temperature and humidity fluctuations. Extreme ranges are never recommended, but they will be far more stable than their dry form.
HGV Growth Formula
Derived from Potassium Nitrate, Monopotassium Phosphate, Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate, Iron EDTA, Sodium Borate, Sodium Molybdate.
HGV Flowering Formula
Derived from Monopotassium Phosphate, Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate, Iron EDTA, Sodium Borate, Sodium Molybdate.
HGV Base Formula
Derived from Calcium Nitrate.
The water you start with is very important and we highly recommend that you have a mineral content test done before you start any nutrient program. These tests are available at many labs. We are happy to help interpret your results and make specific recommendations based on the lab analysis. Visit our website growers forum for more details and a list of labs we use. We can also custom blend nutrients to your specific water when necessary. Minimum order quantities will be required for this service
There is a fairly wide range of acceptable pH levels depending on what media or growing system you are using. For the most part, 5.5-6.5 will work for most crops and growing systems. Checking the pH of your water before adding HGV nutrients and making any adjustments is recommended. The growth and flowering formulas will LOWER the pH of your nutrient solution. If the pH of your water is between 6-7, you will probably need very little to any adjustment for drain to waste growing. For hydroponic applications, monitor and adjust daily. If you’re starting pH (before adding nutrient) is higher than 7 or lower than 6, then use an appropriate product for lowering or raising the pH of the starting water to acceptable levels
Depending on the crop you are growing, there is a very wide range of acceptable nutrient levels. These levels are usually measured in parts per million (PPM) or electrical conductivity (EC). We highly recommend using a meter that reads these levels so you can be certain you are feeding at the appropriate level for your specific crop(s).
Keep out of reach of children or animals. Keep bags tightly sealed and store unused products in a cool, dry location. Please be sure you understand where and how to use this product. If you are unsure as to the suitability for your specific situation, do not use it and contact us for assistance. Home Grown Ventures will not be held liable for the use or misuse of this product.
|Hydroponic and Soil Nutrient
HGV Warehouse - Manufacturing Excellence
HGV University Video Library
> Summary of topics
> Meet your instructors
Importance of PPE
> Recommended protective equipment when mixing nutrients.
Proper HGV mixing and how source water can impact EC and pH
> Importance of knowing your water source (test!)
> Learn how to mix HGV the right way
> See how your source water can impact EC and pH
How to properly adjust pH
> Learning the basics
> See how to properly add pH up
> See how to properly add pH down
Common Mistake: Improper use of pH up
> See what happens when pH up is not properly diluted (100:1 recommended dilution rate)
> Learn what’s actually happening in your irrigation system
Common Mistake: Stock concentrates coming together without being diluted first
> Learn what happens when stock concentrates come into direct contact with each other
> See how Calcium Sulfate is formed and how it behaves
> Have you seen clogging in your filtrations system? See why!
TOP HGV FAQs
Q: Nitrogen Levels In HGV
A: In all my years cultivating (48!) I have only seen one case of N toxicity. What people are constantly mistaking as N toxicity is almost always Ca deficiency and K toxicity OR overwatering of their plants. The only true way to know for sure if you have a toxicity of any element is through laboratory tissue analysis. The tissue samples we have had done over the last 10 years verify this!
Q: Sulphur Levels in HGV
A: HGV has more sulfur than most, if not all, of its competitors. Simply looking at the derivative statement on each bag shows two of the most used raw materials as Magnesium SULFATE and Potassium SULFATE. Typical Sulfur levels at an EC of 3.0 with HGV are 250ppm!
Q: Does HGV affect the terpene profiles or potency levels of my plants?
A: No. Genetics, environment, and proper handling, drying, and curing of the flowers will have the biggest impact.
Q: Will HGV turn my plants purple?
A: No! There are only two ways a plant turns purple. Genetics and nutrient DEFICIENCY. Anthocyanins are responsible for giving purple strains their vibrant color. Starving a plant of Phosphorous will also induce purpling due to P deficiency but that is completely different than a plant turning purple from Anthocyanin. Ways to induce P deficiency include reducing it in your nutrient solution and cold temperatures in the room as well as rootzone.
Q: Will HGV affect the maturation time of my plants?
A: Genetics are solely responsible for the maturation times of HEALTHY plants. Plants that are not healthy will typically finish earlier because they are under tremendous stress. Proper nutrition will not speed up or slow down maturation!
Q: What is the difference between Calcium Nitrate & Calcium Chloride?
A: Calcium Nitrate is 15.5% Nitrogen and 19% Calcium. Calcium Chloride is 27% Calcium and 66% Chloride. Replacing 10% of Calcium Nitrate with Calcium Chloride in your nutrient solution only drops the N level by 17ppm and adds 74ppm Cl. If your starting Cl levels are low, then this is not a big deal BUT for only lowering N by 17ppm you are not gaining anything by doing it. Plants will not show any difference by removing 17ppm N at any stage of growth when following our standard feeding regimen. By replacing all of the Calcium Nitrate with Calcium Chloride, you will not only have 0ppm N in the solution which is not good for your plants, but it also raises the Cl levels to 530PPM to reach the same level of Ca!!!! There is absolutely no benefit to replacing 10% of the Calcium Nitrate with Calcium Chloride. Using 100% Calcium Chloride in place of Calcium Nitrate will be damaging to your plants even if only during the last 3 weeks of flowering.
Q: Are there different feeding charts for lights types or grow media types
A: We do not have "feeding charts" as that assumes everyone is doing the exact same thing and we all know that is not the case. Starting all methods with an ec of 3.0 is always safe. The grower should interpret the results they are getting and adjust from the starting point as necessary. There are too many factors such as media, pot size, environment, genetics, etc. to have a standard one-size-fits-all answer on this topic.
Q: Shake the bag before use
A: The materials used to produce HGV plant nutrients vary in size and can settle during transportation. Larger particles rise to the surface while finer materials sink. When you receive a bag, make sure you shake it up to redistribute all particles evenly or even better, turn the entire bag into a liquid concentrate (see directions) to ensure the most homogenous blend of everything in the bag.
Q: Can I use mycorrhizae or other root inoculants with HGV Nutrients?
A: Yes. I am all for anything that helps develop and keep roots as healthy as possible. One of the keys to yield and quality is a strong, healthy root system.
Q: Do I need to use Cal-Mag with HGV Nutrients?
A: No. Our products contain all the calcium and magnesium needed to sustain healthy growth through all phases. Whether you use RO, well, or municipal water in your grow, you won’t need to worry about calcium or magnesium deficiencies if you are feeding correctly.
Q: Do I need silica, boosters, additives, or finishers with the HGV program?
A: We constantly test "additives" at our grow facility. The metrics I use in determining if an additive is worth the cost are yield, potency, and terpene production. If I do not see an increase in one metric (preferably all 3) then why would I spend money on a product that gives me no return on the investment? As of today, we have not found a single product that justifies the added expense. I strongly encourage people to run detailed side-by-side testing on any additive they want to use or are already using to see if they actually get anything from it. We have had hundreds of customers reduce their input costs by eliminating things they thought they had to use.
Q: Are products like hypochlorous acid and potassium silicate necessary?
A: In most cases, no. Hypochlorous Acid can assist with keeping lines and emitters clean, but there are few situations for which this will have any effect on your results. Potassium Silicate has a pH of 12.7! For people running RO water, it helps with keeping the pH in range BUT it also precipitates easily out of solution and COULD cause clogging of filters and drip emitters. If you need a pH-up product, Pure Potassium Hydroxide is the correct product to use. If an additive or additional input is not adding value (e.g., increase in weight, potency, terpenes, quality) than it is a waste of money and time. In CERTAIN situations these products might have beneficial use, but make sure you are not OVERPAYING for these products. We recommend products like HYPE and TUNE from Remix Chems; they are not only affordable but also much stronger than competing brands on the market.
Q: Are bio-stimulants recommended?
A: If growing in rockwool or coco then they are not necessary. If growing in reused or poor-quality soil then you might see some benefits from these products.
Q: How long do HGV Nutrients last?
A: There is no expiration date for HGV water-soluble nutrients! Once HGV nutrients are made into liquid concentrates, they can last many months if properly stored and if the grower is using clean water and properly sanitizing all surfaces. Since the latter practices are harder to standardize, it’s generally best to plan to make enough liquid concentrate to last a month or two, then thoroughly clean out the liquid concentrate tanks and repeat.
Q: What is the best way to store HGV Nutrients?
A: HGV nutrients should be stored in a cool, dry place to avoid clumping or caking. It’s important to understand that dry water-soluble nutrients are inherently hygroscopic, which means they will take up water over time. This is natural and unavoidable if given the right conditions. Therefore, extreme hot or cold and particularly high humidity should be avoided to keep HGV nutrients flowable. HGV nutrients are manufactured in a sealed, climate-controlled facility using the best equipment that avoids breaking up or shearing the nutrient salts (which also leads to caking). However, once it leaves our factory, it’s difficult to guarantee the product will not cake if improperly stored. It’s therefore important to have a dedicated storage area that is climate controlled if our customers wish to avoid caking completely.
Q: Is caked or clumpy product defective?
A: No, the product is completely fine to use and there will be no difference in performance. It’s important to understand that the chemical makeup of our nutrients does not change based on if it has absorbed water, or the mineral salts have adhered to each other, forming clumps. Therefore, caked, or clumpy products are not defective, and will not perform differently. One difference is that the nutrients(s) may have absorbed water if left in a hot, humid area. So the best practice would be to fully dissolve whole 25lb bags of clumpy product in water, to ensure all the nutrients is used at once.
Q: What is the best way to use caked or clumpy product?
A: Clumped product should first be broken up into smaller chunks if necessary. Get some hot water ready. Begin by slowly adding the broken-up chunks of nutrients to the hot water (the hotter the water, the faster the nutrients will dissolve). Using a paint mixer head on a power drill or similar will make the dissolving process much faster. Continue to agitate until the nutrient solution is homogeneous and clear, and no undissolved bits of mineral salts remain.
USAGE & DILUTION
Q: How do you recommend mixing HGV Nutrients?
A: Here are some general tips and tricks:
Q: What is the correct mixing order for HGV products?
A: It makes no difference the order you mix the nutrients as long as you follow the proper directions. We do typically adjust pH either first or last depending on the situation but adding Base before or after Flowering or Growth makes no difference! Most important is that you NEVER add the nutrients before you have the correct amount of water in your concentrate tank/reservoir. For injectors, the same applies, and you need to be very careful that you are NOT injecting concentrates where they come into contact with each other before they are partially diluted.
Q: What is the maximum solubility of HGV Nutrients?
A: Maximum solubility refers to the highest mass of fertilizer that can be stably dissolved in each volume of water. Keep in mind that the maximum solubility changes based on temperature, the hotter the water the higher the solubility and vice versa. As the fertilizer dissolves, it will lower the temperature of the water which may make it difficult to fully dissolve if you are near maximum solubility rates. If you are using room temperature or colder water, reduce the amount of dry fertilizer per gallon. HGV Base fertilizer has a maximum solubility of 3.0 Lbs./gallon. HGV Grow and Bloom nutrients have maximum solubilities of 2.5 Lbs./gallon
Q: How do I make a concentrate for nutrient injectors?
A: Simple! First, you need to know the ratio the injector is set for, and second, the size of your stock tank. As an example, if your injector is set to 100:1, it simply means that 1 part of your stock tank will go into 100 equal parts of solution. Ounces, gallons, milliliters—it doesn’t matter because it’s a ratio. Let’s use gallons for this example, though. If you have a ratio of 1:100 then one gallon of stock solution will be diluted into 100 gallons of water. If your target EC is reached by dissolving 6 grams (example only, you might need more or less) of nutrient into one gallon of water then you would add 600 grams into a gallon of stock solution to reach the same EC. If your injector ratio is set to 200:1, then one gallon of stock solution would go into 200 gallons of water so you would add 1200 grams to 1 gallon of stock solution to reach the same EC as 600 grams in one gallon at 100:1. It’s important to note that you have to have separate concentrate tanks for the base formula and the growth or flowering formula. They can not be mixed together in concentrated form!
Q: Is agitation needed to ensure complete solubility once made into a concentrate solution for stock tanks?
A: Once the stock solution is fully blended there is NO NEED for further mixing, agitation, or aeration of any kind.
Q: I have very hard or very soft water. Should I take any precautions?
A: In general, very hard or alkaline waters carry a high pH and contain high levels of calcium, magnesium, and sometimes chloride and sodium. We recommend conducting an irrigation water suitability test from a certified agricultural lab. Our technical team would be glad to go over the results with you and make any adjustments to the nutrient system if needed. In general, an acid will be required to neutralize excess alkalinity and lower the solution pH. For growers using very soft or reverse osmosis (RO) water, irrigation solution pH and substrate pH become more difficult to control. This is because very soft waters lack natural water buffers that help regulate pH. This may require more careful monitoring overtime to avoid pH drift and possibly include adding bases to the nutrient solution to correct pH.
Q: The importance of understanding your water via water testing
A: The best money you will ever spend! It’s impossible to know how to properly design or retrofit a grow facility without knowing what is in your water. I have been to countless facilities that have spent tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars on filtration systems that were simply not needed. Please contact your sales representative to get a test kit and then send the results back so we can interpret them for you before you buy any type of filters for your facility. Knowing what is in your water is critical to becoming an efficient operation
Q: Do I need RO Water
A: RO water is used in many commercial operations even when completely unnecessary. I constantly ask people WHY they are using an RO filter and the most common response is “because you have to”. Honestly, I see about 1 in 100 locations that actually need it. Using RO water when not necessary adds a tremendous expense and other issues that are constantly causing problems in grow facilities. Without getting a proper water test BEFORE installing filtration, you are literally shooting yourself in the foot! Even in cases where RO filtration is the only method to remove something from the water supply, you don’t need to run 100% RO water. Using a blending valve that most commercial RO systems already have, you can adjust the amount of filtration necessary and greatly reduce wasted water and other issues that arise from running straight RO water. Again, a simple water test is all that is needed to set this up properly.
Q: Should I use an ozone generator?
A: Ozone water treatment is a water treatment method that reduces contaminants through ozone’s oxidative strength. Ozone is an oxidant, which means it reacts with other substances and accepts their electrons. For example, when iron is oxidized, it becomes rust. Ozone water treatment begins with the creation of ozone in an ozone generator. Then, ozone is injected into water, and immediately starts oxidizing and eliminating contaminants, such as bacteria, viruses, and metals. Ozone oxidizes organic material in the membranes of bacteria, viruses, and parasites. Ozone also oxidizes iron, manganese, and copper and zinc into solid particles that can be easily filtered from water by mechanical filtration which in turn, causes clogged filters! When trace elements are oxidized out of solution, they are no longer available to your plants which results in sever nutrient deficiencies leading to plant death. Because of this, we do not recommend using any type of oxidizer in any form. Whether it be through ozone generation, chlorine dioxide, zerotol, etc.
Q: What is the difference between dry and liquid nutrients?
A: Water! Ok, maybe a bit more than that, depending on the ingredients used by the manufacturer. For inorganic liquid nutrients using the same or similar ingredients as we do, then water is the biggest difference. Most companies are taking dry, raw ingredients and dissolving them in water along with some food coloring and bottling them. Depending on the ingredients used, the solubility is usually 2.5-3 lbs per gallon. The rest of that gallon is water! One of our 25lb bags would end up in 8-10 gallons of water and would weigh 65-85 pounds! imagine what that does to freight cost, not to mention storing all that water in containers in your valuable growing space.
Q: Are HGV nutrients compatible with all types of growing mixes or hydroponic cultivation methods?
A: Yes, HGV fertilizers are compatible with all hydroponics, soilless, and potting mixes commonly sold in the market today. HGV nutrients have been extensively tested in coco coir, stone wool (rockwool), peat mixes, and hydroponic liquid cultured systems. For growers growing in field soils, we recommend a soil test be conducted first. For questions, please contact our technical support teams.
Q: What about heavy metals in your product?
A: This is one of the most controversial topics these days and I could go on for hours about it. The important thing to realize is that every single nutrient line that is licensed and registered for sale in a state has gone through laboratory testing to be sure it meets federal standards for heavy metal content. This testing is public information and is available through your state’s department of agriculture. I encourage you to take the time and look up whatever line of nutrients you are using and see that they are compliant. Fancy marketing words like “pharmaceutical grade” or “technical grade” ingredients don’t make a difference in the end product in the numbers we are talking about here (parts per billion!). If you really want to be surprised, check out all of the “organic” nutrient lines. I think you might be shocked at the levels they contain. And no, there is no such thing as “organic lead” or “organic mercury.” Feel free to call or email me if you would like to talk about this subject more. I am never at a loss for words when it comes to this or any other topic about growing.
A: In any sealed indoor grow room, supplemental CO2 is necessary for proper plant growth BUT how much is enough? How much is too much? How much is not enough? The only way to know for sure is through trial and monitoring at each specific location and even in each specific room. I see people running crazy high levels because they figure that if 1000ppm is good, then 2000ppm must be twice as good! The problem is that plants can only uptake and metabolize a certain amount of CO2 per day. The unmetabolized CO2 is then expelled from the plants at night. If you are seeing spiking CO2 levels in your grow rooms at night, try reducing the level you run during lights on and cut off CO2 enrichment early enough before lights out to bring levels down to ambient (350-400ppm) before the lights go off. Ideally, you will only supplement enough CO2 during the lights on period that your plants can actually use. This results in less wasted CO2 every day and optimal plant growth as well.
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